How to Bleed a Radiator (Step by Step, No Tools Drama)
If a radiator is cold at the top but warm at the bottom, there's air trapped in it — and letting it out takes five minutes. Here's exactly how, including the two mistakes that catch people out.
What you need
- A radiator bleed key (about £1 from any hardware shop — some radiators take a flat screwdriver)
- A cloth or small tub to catch drips
Step by step
- Turn the heating off and let the radiators cool. Bleeding with the pump running pulls more air in, and the water inside can be scalding. This is mistake number one.
- Find the bleed valve — a small square pin inside a round nut at one top corner of the radiator.
- Hold the cloth under the valve and turn the key anti-clockwise about a quarter to half a turn. You'll hear a hiss — that's the air escaping. Don't unscrew it fully.
- Wait for the hiss to stop. When water starts to dribble out steadily, the air is gone. Close the valve snugly — firm, not gorilla-tight.
- Repeat for any other airy radiators, starting with the lowest floor and working up.
- Check the boiler pressure. This is mistake number two — bleeding lowers system pressure. If the gauge now reads under 1 bar, top it up to about 1.2 using the filling loop, or the boiler may lock out. Our pressure guide covers it.
- Heating back on and check the radiator heats evenly top to bottom.
When bleeding won't fix it
- Cold at the bottom instead? That's sludge, not air — bleeding does nothing. See our cold radiator guide.
- Same radiator needs bleeding every week? Air is getting in somewhere — often a small leak or a corroding system making gas. Worth investigating before it damages the boiler.
- Whole floor cold? More likely a balancing or pump issue than air.
Rather we just sorted it?
No shame in it — and if radiators keep going cold there's usually an underlying cause worth finding. We cover Preston and the surrounding areas: 07949 075721, or the form below. More on our central heating page.